DPDT Latching green ring Illuminated switch.
There is no internal resistor on these so you need to use the correct resistor in order to not fry the LED. The LED has a forward voltage of 3.3V and runs at 20mA. 4.8V would use a 82ohm 1/4 watt resistor, 6V would use a 150ohm 1/4 watt resistor. If you are not sure which to use please ask.
These are large and the only items currently set up to accept them are the Box style's 2-6 and Bezel for illuminated switches.
There is no internal resistor on these so you need to use the correct resistor in order to not fry the LED. The LED has a forward voltage of 3.3V and runs at 20mA. 4.8V would use a 82ohm 1/4 watt resistor, 6V would use a 150ohm 1/4 watt resistor. If you are not sure which to use please ask.
These are large and the only items currently set up to accept them are the Box style's 2-6 and Bezel for illuminated switches.
Brittle contacts.
I've ordered several of these kinds of switches before and they look fantastic and the housing is well made but the contacts are extremely brittle if you dare to bend it don't try to bend them again. They will break off. Make sure of where they need to sit before soldering it together.
Wonderful Switch
I picked up one of these for my latest saber. After reading how long they were, I was a little hesitant to use one even though I love the look. I wound up using the taller bezel for the mount and it still doesn't protrude too much on the outside. And, as long as you solder the wires on the leads facing outward, there is plenty of room in the body (I would assume still enough if I had used the standard bezel size, too. I did hot glue the connections for some added protection, but I do that on all my connections anyway. Only downside I could find to the switch was that it has a lot of travel in the button before it latches. Not a big deal, but it does take more effort to activate/deactivate the LED. The green ring is nice and bright when on.