Activation box style 28 kit
The box is 2" long x .78" wide and is held in place by two 4-40 screws which are included in the kit.
The bottom radius will fit MHSv1 or similar sized tubes (1.5" OD)
The box can be used in a stand alone setup or wired into the saber electronics
An optional PCB Upgrade is available HERE .
-Stand alone lighted box info-
Requires 2x 357 sized batteries (not included)
-Wired into saber electronics info-
There are a few ways to incorporate this into the saber wiring. The first basic option is to use the sabers battery to power the box which in our testing can handle at least 4v.
This setup will allow you to use one power source for the saber but also still retain the functionality of the box. The lower portion of the PCB and the top of the negative tab should be isolated from the box so there are no shorting issues.
Another option is to individually use the components on the board.
Here we took a dremel with a cutoff wheel and carfully cut the traces in three places. This disconnects the two red switches from everything else. You would wire these switches using one of the two tabs on the top side and one of the two on the bottom side of each switch. You can solder to the pads on the back side of the board just keep in mind clearance for the box top. If you use the inner pads you should have plenty of clearance. Be sure to cover the outer 2 pads with tape so they cannot be shorted by the box top.
(more info to come)
The box is 2" long x .78" wide and is held in place by two 4-40 screws which are included in the kit.
The bottom radius will fit MHSv1 or similar sized tubes (1.5" OD)
The box can be used in a stand alone setup or wired into the saber electronics
An optional PCB Upgrade is available HERE .
-Stand alone lighted box info-
Requires 2x 357 sized batteries (not included)
-Wired into saber electronics info-
There are a few ways to incorporate this into the saber wiring. The first basic option is to use the sabers battery to power the box which in our testing can handle at least 4v.
This setup will allow you to use one power source for the saber but also still retain the functionality of the box. The lower portion of the PCB and the top of the negative tab should be isolated from the box so there are no shorting issues.
Another option is to individually use the components on the board.
Here we took a dremel with a cutoff wheel and carfully cut the traces in three places. This disconnects the two red switches from everything else. You would wire these switches using one of the two tabs on the top side and one of the two on the bottom side of each switch. You can solder to the pads on the back side of the board just keep in mind clearance for the box top. If you use the inner pads you should have plenty of clearance. Be sure to cover the outer 2 pads with tape so they cannot be shorted by the box top.
(more info to come)
Great control box.
Looks good and fit great on my Korbanth LS6 Gulwing. The electronics work great. Though I did lose one of the clear acrylic arrows. Not TCSS's fault at all. Completely mine. Just want everyone to be careful and keep track on everything during builds. :)